Atlanta - Manhattan - South Beach - NW FL Gulf Coast - Carmel - Charleston
404.219.5918
nationwide toll free 1.866.226.9611
Post Office Box 4861 Seaside FL 32459
Jeffrey Blake Adams prophoto@adamsimages.com

Getting started: How to pick an agency, and start up costs for a beginning model.

Agency fees charged directly to a model can be broken down into two distinctive groups, one which can be considered normal charges made by any agency (although they can be abused), and another group which would certainly be suspect (but not necessarily improper).

The first group of normal fees would include the agency commission for placement on jobs.

Normally expressed as a percentage of the hourly or daily rate earned by the model, this percentage can be as low as 5%, and as high as 50%, with the average for placement on standard print or runway work being 20% (be aware that the agency may also charge the client, not the model, a service fee, again typically 20%). The lower fee structure is usually associated with TV or movie work, and the higher percentages are typical of foreign assignments, mostly in the Far East (Japan, Korea, etc.).

Other "normal" agency charges include the physical cost of producing materials directly associated with the promotion of individual models. Composite cards for the model which are ordered through the agency are charged back to the model, placement in the agency promotional book which is printed and distributed by the agency, and now electronic media promotional materials such as (but not limited to) internet promotional websites may also generate legitimate fees to the model.

Why are these these charges and fees passed through to the models, and not absorbed by the agency as normal operating expenses? Part of this has to do with tax law, and part of it has to do with the nature of the "standard" representation contract signed by the models with the individual agencies. The vast majority of these contracts strive to create a relationship which is not an employer - employee relationship. The agency typically promises only to "advise" the model, and no promises of guaranteed work or payments (accept the direct pass through of collected model's fees from the clients) is made. If this arrangement is properly structured, the agency is not normally responsible for taxes such as withholding, social security payments, unemployment, and workman's compensation premiums. Payment of direct charges for printing, publishing and distribution of promotional materials for the models (not more general materials promoting the agency) could imply that an employer - employee relationship does exist, and that would place the agency in the position of having to pay significant taxes and premiums to the government (federal, state, and local). It is also possible that the agency would even come under the equal opportunity provisions of various oversight agencies. Clearly this would put agencies in an odd position (do you have enough models over 40, what percentage of your models are handicapped or of Serbo-Croatian ancestry?).

So agencies do pass on the hard charges directly associated with many promotional items associated with individual models And by the way, major agencies in cities like New York, Chicago, Atlanta, and Los Angeles who provide access to "model's apartments", advance living expenses for things like food, and prepay fees for travel to and from assignments, do so under loan arrangements and fully expect to be paid back by the models from client fees or directly by the models from their own pockets.

The second set of more questionable charges made by smaller agencies in smaller (and sometimes large) markets include such things as "modeling classes", makeup and runway training, and photography produced by a specific "agency photographer". These "agencies" invent special fee opportunities faster than I can keep up with them, but unless they are specifically related to direct marketing charges for model promotion, I remain very skeptical.

These "fees" are more likely to be the agency's only source of income, when the placement of their models on paying assignments should be. Asking to be provided with information about the income made by their top models for assignments arranged by the agency, is not out of line for someone considering representation through that agency. I am also not a fan of the various model "searches", which promise access to major agency representatives or scouts, but primarily are in the business of collecting large fees from prospective models while providing access to these people (if they can actually attract them) under the most adverse circumstances.

Much better is for the local agency or agent to actually arrange individual appointments for their models with the major agencies and then go and see them at their offices. Typically this could be done for the fees charged for these "searches", and places the model in the best position to be seriously considered.

So, what are the expenses a person should reasonably anticipate when considering a career in modeling?

First, photography, and not necessarily with just one photographer. Different photographer's styles in your book shows you in different ways, and shows you have worked with at least more than one photographer. But do keep in mind its better to have ONE really great photograph vs having lots of mediocre ones. Reasonable charges for photography which should produce images which can be used to promote the model first to the agency, then to prospective clients, run from $350 to $1800, depending upon the photographer's reputation and abilities, not including makeup and enlargements.

Keep in mind you want the best you can afford to make your portfolio stand out.

Many aspiring or early career, photographers who work for ad agencies or other commercial clients will test models for a minimal fee (figure $200 to $300) in order to meet and work with the model. Rarely, a qualified photographer will test for very little or nothing, but understand that the photographer under those circumstances may be more interested in getting a picture of interest to them, than one of value to the model.

Sometimes an agency can arrange for a free test with a photographer THEY are interested in learning more about, but then again, the results are a matter of some conjecture (hence the need for the test).

Makeup and hair styling for photography shoots are also a responsibility of the model. Some models can do their own makeup, but this is an area of great importance to the finished result, and should also be left to a qualified professional. Sources for referrals to a good makeup artist can be through the agency, or through a qualified photographer. Costs for makeup can run as little as $25 per look for a short shoot, to as much as $300 or more. A reasonable fee for a qualified artist for a typical portfolio shoot might be around $100.

Don't expect one session to produce more than three to six "looks" (changes in attire and makeup). Any more than that starts to become repetitive and the number of useful images drops dramatically.

Composite cards are a key to marketing any model. These are normally a single "flip" card, 8.5" X 5.5" in size (although this can vary slightly), with normally one shot on the front, and three or four on the back. A great head shot normally is the "grabber" on the front, and the back would show images consistent with the type of work the model seeks on the back. The costs for these cards can run as little as $100, to as much as $1,500 or more for elaborate multi fold, printed color cards. Today, most new models (and many heavily booked veterans) have cards with both color and black and white images produced on specialized laser copiers for as little as $150 to $200 for 100 cards. Additional cards can be obtained quickly when they are needed, and new pictures can be inserted when desired on subsequent orders. Many veteran photographers have graphic design people that can create these for you.

After a model has the necessary four or twelve quality images this is the one marketing tool they must (I stress, must) have. Agencies, particularly smaller market (or remote) agencies are increasingly using the Internet as a communication and marketing tool. We are even seeing the major, large market agencies now "online". Again, the agencies are charging the models for their inclusion on these websites (they do cost money), but the costs are typically low (figure $100 per year as a fair charge). Anything substantially higher than that would be a red flag.

So, what does it cost to get started? As a purely speculative number based on my analysis, lay aside $750 to $2500 for photography (figuring two or three shoots), $200 to $300 for makeup and hair styling, $400 for cards, a portfolio book with six to eight high quality enlargements, and maybe $100 for electronic media. This doesn't include wardrobe, travel expenses, shoes, meals, living expenses, etc.

Can it be done for less, of course. Primarily in the area of photography, where trade outs are possible, but remember, the closer you cut the corners, the greater the risk in failing to get appropriate marketing materials. You get what you pay for, a well meaning amateur "may" get a few images you can use, maybe not, a pro WILL get you what you need, first time, every time, that's why they get paid, to reliably perform, saving you time and money in the long run.

On going expenses include the cost of constantly updating and improving your photographic images (and here you can get help, as you work with professional photographers and find people who produce quality work, and are actively shooting editorial and commercial work, you will find they refer you, to their clients, IF you are professional, ON TIME, and easy to work with), replacing old cards with new images, hair care, wardrobe, travel to meet new clients, agents, and photographers. Hopefully, your agency is getting you placements at this time, and so these expenses are part of the normal cost of doing business.

An agency should only take you on because they believe they can place you on jobs, their income is dependent on you working (assuming they are a legitimate agency). It is reasonable to expect that if they sign you, you will have the opportunity to work, which justifies your startup costs. But please, do check (ask them directly) about models they represent, and if they are getting good paying assignments.

Real agencies are not reluctant to provide this information, they are proud of their record, it is how they attract working models. Even big name models change agencies (Niki Taylor from Irene Marie to IMG, Claudia Schiffer from Metropolitan to Elite, as an example), and they do this because they believe that the new agency can provide them with more work than their original agency has done. If an agency has a great track record, they can't wait to tell you! Jeffrey

How much does Time for Print : COST

"Time For Print" is an exchange of services, where the customer or model provide their time and the photographer provides the services, at no cost to each other. The photographer receives copyright to the images and the customer or model receives the right to use the images for their portfolio The concept provides each party something, in this case images (either print or digital copies) in exchange for time and services. Usually both parties use the images for their portfolios and negotiate rights to these images.

Inexperienced models want images to develop a usable portfolio and photographer often requires the same in exchange. The photographer is the default copyright holder according to most regions copyright laws, and may wish to utilize the images for additional purposes.

Time for print appears to be free for both parties, but in both cases it comes with costs.

The model must prepare before hand and often may buy new clothing, cosmetics, get her hair done ect, in order to look their best during the shot. She has to schedule the time off her day job. All of this costs money.

Each photographer may calculate the basic cost per shot. Digital cameras (no need to buy film) have a limited life and can only be used for a limited number of shoots before failure, and replacements are required. Keeping the photographic equipment up to date with current technologies is also costly –– even if film and processing is not used, not to mention the cost of travel & studio space if it is used.

Both parties spend time together in the pursuit of wonderful images they can each be proud of. Each thinks they only need to practice for free in order to get to where they might wish to go. If either wishes to reach a professional status they must practice with at large number of shoots. If each only practices with amateurs they may never actually be taught the basics required to meet a professional status and may still only have amateur photographs and be unable to utilize them for presentation to agents and media.

There is a solution to this excessive time and monetary expense and that is to select only the very best photographers, or the very best models. The dilemma is that the very best photographers and models are likely to want to charge you for their services.

Depending on their prices this may be the cheaper way to move toward a professional status more quickly.

How do you know when it is worthwhile to pay for the others expertise? Add up your estimated costs of only 5 –– 10 shoots with inexperienced people, and then compare this cost with the cost of a single shoot with a great professional photographer. Your conclusion will be based on your own desires. Some wish to simply dabble and approach their craft as a hobby while others will be serious and driven to succeed. No matter which you are you may benefit from considering spending a little more per shoot by utilizing the services of a professional and getting the higher quality images your time and effort should deserve.

WORK AT HOME OP- How Do I do so much, party and play so hard, work so hard, get nearly no sleep, and Not DIE? ...For years, since coming to the gulf coast, all my close friends have wondered how I can keep going and party so hard without drugs. One part is a huge appetite for LIFE. And an urge driven by not wanting to miss anything, but a huge part was Red Bull, which kept me going, but ripped my stomach up. Many close close friends know I used to work all night as security for the hottest local club out there, at the same time I have a full time photography business, worked 80+ hours a week and had my gallery in Seaside. Red bull and good friends kept me going, and allowed me to stay awake and functional whilst working, well now I can do it, get healthier, AND not have my stomach in pain, and not have any crash after! Verve is all natural, tastes great by itself, even better with vodka, Malibu etc! Check it out, oh yeah, you can make money with it too, really. I already have and all I have time to do is give a sample to friends, once they try it, they buy it, and keep buying it. Of course, then they want to learn how to make money with it, and it just rolls on from there!